This week has proved to be one of the best yet during my stay, (and there have been so, so many!!), however it didn't start out that way...
During the whole week here in Queretaro, every day has hosted a major parade that has literally enveloped the entirety of the downtown sector, with various themes such as the indigenous tribes holding various gatherings and marching (more like dancing...) through the streets.Unfortunately, I didn't get which ones were parading, but there were several and they as proud of the Bicentenario as any other population was and they were definitely showing that pride in force!
On Monday last, as usual, the Mojo Katz were scheduled to play at Harry's Queretaro, which was basically located at 'ground zero' of the festivities, as the parades tend to completely encircle both the Plaza Constitucion and the Jardin de la Corregidora, with no real break in the processions until the police sweep them from the streets at 8pm. I was traveling with my good friend Oscar that day, and the traffic was like nothing either of us had ever seen. Usually, we are able to stop the car at the Plaza and unload all of the amplifiers, guitars and gear basically right in front of Harry's, where the rest of the Mojo Katz assist in the transport to the stage, Today was a much different story - Unable to even move in traffic, let alone find a place to park, Oscar pointed me in an alternate direction and we skirted the vast majority of the crush of vehicles trying to make their way to the festivities. Thanks to Oscar, we were able to not only get within proximity of the gig, we even found parking! The down-side of this was that we were still a good two miles away from Harry's, not to mention we still had a Land Rover's cargo of musical equipment to carry by hand to the show - shit, this would officially suck!
The Death March
(or something that approached it...!)
As Oscar and I figured out various ways to hand-carry two good-sized amplifiers, two amp stands, a bass gig bag, his backpack, a mic set and cords, and a laptop case, it began to dawn on us that the task ahead was going to officially 'suck'. Please understand, Oscar is probably half my size, but luckily for me he's at least as strong, and probably stronger. We traded our gear in various configurations, with the amps being the worst of the deal as they just had a lousy handle to grasp. At the one-mile mark, with my hands, feet, knees and generally my sanity beginning to give way, Oscar showed his mettle when he took both amps from me along with the laptop and in essence, give me a nice break for at least a quarter mile! He was a real trooper and had he not been with me, the Mojo Katz probably would have missed that show. (thanks again bro!)
As we approached the north end of the Jardin, we saw that the parades had indeed completely overtaken all of Centro and the native tribes were dancing up a storm, with the 4-6 foot long pheasant feathers from their headdresses rising high above the crowds - it was an awe-inspiring sight! We rounded the edge of the throngs gathered and as we passed in front of Iglesia de San Francisco, a large church that dominates the Jardin's skyline, Oscar informed me that we were better to give up trying to cross the packed street over to the Gran Hotel, where our gig was that evening. He advised me that to attempt a crossing will end very bad for the both of us, as we would be interrupting a sacred ritual; his words were "a lot of angry old ladies", but I got what he meant - bad friggin idea!
We were scheduled to begin setting-up at 6, it was already 7 so there was no way on earth I could wait that long... the gods of the Blues, hearing our desperate pleas, were shining on us that afternoon. They had apparently struck a bargain with the much older gods that these people revered.
Almost like it must have appeared to the Jews fleeing Pharaoh the parade somehow separated with one group pulling far away from another, just like an ocean parting and revealing a path for us to cross. With little ceremony (and several 'colorful' phases), Oscar and I ran across the road, nearly killing a few people with our amps who were hesitant to give way. Luckily nobody lost any fingers or toes, and my good friend and I did a half victory dance-half collapsing on the floor of Harry's as we celebrated the end of the long, difficult struggle.
The gig went much better as we knew that we had suffered for and very much earned it that day.
For those who have been requesting it, we hired a video production company and recorded the entire show; hopefully at least a few of the songs will be good enough to post - stay tuned!
Wednesday Evening's Festivities - the 15th of September, 2010Mexico's Bicentennial Celebration in Queretaro, Mexico
That afternoon, as I left the north end (behind schedule, as usual, lol) I headed back into town with much trepidation; from the experience of the previous four days I expected the entirety of the city to be awash in vehicles searching for parking within (at least?) 5 miles of the Centro Historico and a massive tangle of 'taxi-buses' and cabs all piled into a massive cluster-f**k that would be my usual route. What I found, however, was a jaw-dropping surprise.
As I made my way south and entered the exit for the Bernardo Quintana Parkway, the lane was almost clear! I thought that I just had not caught the bulk of the Holiday traffic and very soon would be within its teeth, but this was never to pass. With my mouth agape I'm sure, I exited at Los Arcos (the road which follows the aqueduct, the city's principal historic symbol) I found the road sparsely driven and even found a great spot across from the Starbucks. I was completely astounded, and perhaps just a wee bit flabbergasted too. lol
Speaking wit my friends afterward, many of them chose to stay indoors or go to private parties, with all of the news of late about threats from the 'bad elements', therefore that may account for the surprising lack of traffic that early evening. Afterward, I made my way to Centro, as it is referred, I found parking in a local parking garage, which was already full but had some creative solutions to fitting yet more vehicles there, which included leaving one's keys with the attendant. Be advised, when you do this, you are obviously placing this person in a position of deep trust as for everyone, one's vehicle is their most valuable asset and in Mexico and is often paid for with something akin to a mortgage as it involves a much higher percentage of an average person's income - should one be lucky enough to be able to even afford such a luxury. This fact is not lost by the attendants and they take it very seriously - your vehicle is left in good hands.
"Viva Mexico, Cabrones!"
As usual, we made our way to and met more of my friends at Harry's. Since I spend a great deal of time there anyway, it only seemed fitting to be there for El Grito. As we sat in the restaurant, having a great dinner with even better company, the Plaza Constitucion filled with more and more people, until it had grown to a full-scale throng. This was much closer to what I had pictured in envisioning the scene at 11 pm in Queretaro.
From our beautiful table in Harry's outside dining area, looking over the multitude gathered I felt a deep connection with the people who are my hosts during my stay here. Families, young and old, city dwellers and country folk alike, all were joined together in this most historical place for probably the most most historically significant moments of their lives and revel in its magic. At 11, the bells of Iglesia San Francisco tolled and before it had finished, we heard the 'giving of the Grito' (see previous post for an explanation), and the entire plaza in front of us responded "VIVA" with each hail from a then unseen caller. Traditionally, the caller is the governor of the state who stands on the terraza of the Palacio de Governo located in the Plaza de Armos, about a block away from where we we sitting. It was relatively easy to hear the Grito being called (even with me being so bloody deaf! lol), but the crowd all giving a resounding "Viva" was a force of nature impossible to ignore. A beautiful moment for the entirety of Mexico, allowing a much-tested population a respite from all of it's political, social, economic and violent struggles that transcended into a unified pride in their country, and especially, their heritage.
... and I was especially proud for them, my good friends that I have grown to cherish.
Here's El Grito from the Zocalo given by Philipe Calderone, the President of Mexico, as it was broadcast on CNN Espanol, along with the huge fireworks display that was to follow:
What I did not realize, was that we also seated at 'ground zero' for the Queretaro fireworks display to immediately follow. Over the past year, among other things Mexico particularly favors in its festivities is the ample use of fireworks. That evening was to be no disappointment as the continuous display lasted easily a solid fifteen minutes. It was great!
After the show, we (somehow) made our way over to the other side of the area, the Jardin de la Corregidora, which was just a sea of humanity that I had never witnessed before that evening.
My tranquil little park, where I walk through on my way home from Harry's, had been transformed into a gigantic party with literally tens of thousands who had gathered there to watch one of the famous clocks counting down toward zero, which was followed by the Grito.
A jocular mayhem ensued as the massive crowd moved through the Plaza and notably was both exuberant yet cordial to those not as physically capable. I watched as teenagers and larger twenty-something men, mindful of others, paid very close attention not to push or disturb those around them who may have been less physically adept.
A most impressive and considerate act, considering just how utterly crowded the Jardin was and indicative of the Cultura de Mexicana as a whole, Here they just think of it as a good upbringing, which is the norm.
I Went Down to the Crossroads...!
Making our way northward down Corregidora, as the crowds began to abate, we found out way to another favorite place of mine, La Encrucijada, (the Crossroads) - the best place to see live rock performed by some of the best musicians in Mexico! Admittedly a biased opinion as the guitarist there is Johnny, who is also a member of the Mojo Katz Blues Band! lol
Tonight was a special evening there, in many respects, and they had scheduled a one-time only Wednesday show that featured an entire evening of Rocka en Espanol in honor of the holiday. Although my familiarity with this brand of music is quite limited and I understand very little of the lyrics, I still enjoyed myself thoroughly. It was a treat to watch this amazing band play music that they had grown-up with, playing with such ferocity and the people of the audience not singing, but rather screaming along with what is being sung by the vocalists Pablo and Perla, (who btw is also a guest Mojo Kat on occasion..!).
An amazing performance to witness and I was proud and quite humbled to have been invited to attend.
This is a truly magical place, this Mexico.
