Independence Day
I really wanted to see some of the other historically significant cities in that region, ones that my schedule did not permit earlier. For the evening of the 15th, the giving of the Grito at 11pm was probably the high point of one's experience for the 2010 celebration. Unbeknown at the time by and luckily for me, that was not the only one and much more was yet to come. I had to serendipitously stumble upon the rest of the fun and it proved a wonderful trip. First on my list was Delores Hidalgo, so-named for its famous one-time resident who began in 1810 what was being celebrated that day.
(should this be an unfamiliar story, you can see this blog's previous entry for the history of Hidalgo).
On Google Maps, it is labeled as:
Delores Hidalgo
Cuna de La Independencia National
(National Birthplace, or literally Cradle, of Independence).
(should this be an unfamiliar story, you can see this blog's previous entry for the history of Hidalgo).
On Google Maps, it is labeled as:
Delores Hidalgo
Cuna de La Independencia National
(National Birthplace, or literally Cradle, of Independence).
From Queretaro, it is now a relatively easy trip due to the just-completed renovation of the road between Highway 57 and San Miguel; what once was a twisting narrow old road is now a widened and straightened tarmac equipped with shoulders for passing. The improved route shaved the time from nearly an hour (with traffic) to just around 20 minutes or so, and since I had passengers this time I wanted speed it up. On my part, the much improved mood due to the lowered stress of not having to follow a chicken truck for most of that time was priceless!
To get to Delores Hidalgo from Santiago de Queretaro, the total trip took us, from what I remember, an hour and 15 minutes traveling at around noon in the light traffic of a national holiday. To get there one passes through San Miguel de Allende, however its downtown can be avoided due to the bypass that was constructed some years ago, improving one's time further. We arrived there at about 1pm, in my estimate, and that was perfect to see the day's festivities there and pay homage to the town's most famous resident.
With the significance of that day, the place that hosted the birth of Mexico was as expected a bustling hub of activity, with the town square its epicenter. As with most towns and cities, and Mexico is no exception, the town square is its the beating heart. However, with Delores, the town square is also home of the famous Iglesia (church) where the humble Priest was said to have delivered his famous cry for independence that ignited the revolution of 1810, so this place was one that I, and all who could make the journey, wanted to see.
A Whole Lotta Sewing Machines....!
On the outside of the town the nation of Mexico saw fit to erect a fitting tribute to its historical significance - a 500 foot tall flagpole with a Mexican flag (literally) the size of a football pitch billowing from it. Anyone who has been to the main border towns of Mexico will see one of similar proportions on their side of the border, a 'show of force' so-to-speak, to remind we gringos of the pride that runs deep in the Mexican heart.As one approaches the town, the flag is the dominant feature of the somewhat flat landscape. I believe we saw it at about the five mile mark outside of town, and it provided a nice orientation as we traveled. Once you arrive, the park is actually a bit misleading in it's presentation - by that, I mean that parking is not allowed directly in front of the main area, but rather on the sides. The park is actually a small military installation 'guarded' by the local reservists who have a small barracks in the center of it; if you try to park on their area, they tend to get a bit testy, lol. Since it's not a huge draw, the five spaces provided to east prove to be plenty. A nice sidewalk promenade allows one to venture to the base of the flagpole, where the scale of the whole monument is soon realized! Standing underneath it, one can hear the massive amount of fabric making a gentle rumble, which is quite impressive - probably reminiscent of the sound made by the massive sails of the schooners of the late 18th century.
After 'rallying around the flag' we proceeded into town, where the festivities were centered. The traffic was certainly heavier than the first time I visited the area several months ago, but was lighter than I expected. After snaking our way through the narrow streets we found parking at an estacionarse publico (public parking) for about 15 pesos per hour (a little more than 1 USD) and made our way on foot two blocks to the town square.
With very few exceptions in my experience, every town in Mexico and the rest of Latin America, the town center contains at least one 'green space' called the Jardin (garden), and it is where the people gather to relax and enjoy both the trees and the pleasant company of their fellow townsfolk. It is the place to go to buy a newspaper read it while getting a shoe shine, and then relax on a park bench and chat with your companion(s) or just listen to the birds. It stands in stark contrast to the US where to stroll anywhere and taking time to just sit and relax outside is something quite rare in that lifestyle. Obviously I need not delve into the difference in blood pressure rates or heart disease morality, but it does serve as a lesson as to where and how people should consider spending at least part of their day and what role quality of life plays in that consideration.
With very few exceptions in my experience, every town in Mexico and the rest of Latin America, the town center contains at least one 'green space' called the Jardin (garden), and it is where the people gather to relax and enjoy both the trees and the pleasant company of their fellow townsfolk. It is the place to go to buy a newspaper read it while getting a shoe shine, and then relax on a park bench and chat with your companion(s) or just listen to the birds. It stands in stark contrast to the US where to stroll anywhere and taking time to just sit and relax outside is something quite rare in that lifestyle. Obviously I need not delve into the difference in blood pressure rates or heart disease morality, but it does serve as a lesson as to where and how people should consider spending at least part of their day and what role quality of life plays in that consideration.
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| locals and tourisas watching a musical act in front of the Iglesia de Hidalgo |
The Jardin was abuzz with vendors everywhere selling everything from jewelry to snacks and the item Delores is famous for - Ice Cream! Called helado in Spanish, the Ice cream vendors of Delores Hidalgo have created not just a delicious treat that people travel great distances to sample, but also many flavors that range from an amazing natural strawberry all the way to tequila - it's a surprisingly good and usually one of the first that runs out. A final word on the subject, if you have never tried naturally flavored vanilla ice cream, definitely put that on your Bucket List!
The center of the Jardin has a towering statue dedicated to the the humble priest the town was co-named in his honor. From the southwest, (looking NE), the statue of Hidalgo is given an elegant backdrop of the church that he made the famous cry for independence, as the legend maintains. It's an inspiring site, even with knowledge of his fate just a mere nine months later.Eating my ice cream and browsing the wares displayed by the vendors, even this far-removed I still could not escape visions of what that day may have been like and the emotional crossroads he and his followers must have reached to embark on their violent revolutionary march. The rest is written in blood in the history of this country. |
| the clock in front of the Iglesia de Hidalgo |
At the base of the church stands one of the large clocks that countdown to 11pm, September 15th. You may have noticed one similar to it was located in the Jardin in Queretaro also.The government placed them in several cities, especially in historically significant areas, Delores Hidalgo certainly topping that list. The clocks now all read 00 dias 00 horas 00 minutos, as the hour of the bicentennial has come and gone, leaving a patriotic warm feeling in the populace and rhapsodic memories of el Grito and the celebrations that followed.
Following Hidalgo's March into History
After sight-seeing in Delores for a couple of hours, admittedly all in the downtown area as this is where (to me) the most interesting parts of town, we piled into the old Land Rover and headed back to San Miguel. Again, the roads are very good along this route so it took about 45 minutes to get to the outskirts, and taking a less-traveled direction allowed us into the downtown much quicker than the heavily traveled thoroughfares. And No, I will NOT disclose my secret here, as I'm going to need that one for a few more months.. maybe if you all ask nicely I'll consider just before my time here is ending - it's mine, mine mine! lol.
Actually, all of the locals know about it and probably a trove of other ones, alas so my 'secret' is only a gringo one....
On our way to Delores earlier that day, we passed a large pack of riders on horseback, traveling the path of the march that Hidalgo's first assembled 'forces' traveled on their way to take San Miguel. It was the first of many cities to be conquered by Hidalgo's army, and while the majority of them were native peasants on foot, he did have a cavalry also and these re-enactors of this march were dressed in various costumes including period Vaqueros (cowboys) and others in the Spanish Military Blue and White. By car it's a fast trip, but for these guys, it took the better part of the day. We met-up with them later downtown San Miquel where they were the star attraction - apparently it was an annual tradition that was much anticipated this year.
Ending It All With a Bang - Literally!
Parking was much more difficult here, as it has proved every weekend but especially on this day, being a National Holiday in the city that lays claim and also bears the name of another hero of the revolution of 1810. Ignacio Allende, as I discussed in a previous post, was the counterpart to Hidalgo, and his home is a prominent feature of the town's Jardin, making the celebration here even more poignant.
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| La Casa de Allende (notice the Starbucks Coffee located immediately to its right) |
After what turned out to be the first half of the show, the second 'barrage' began, of which I was able catch it on video, seen here in two parts. It was climatic end to what had been an already beautiful week:
I think my ears rang the entire trip back to Queretaro, but it was worth it!
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