My Current Home, This Region of Mexico, is Where It All Started
When I first arrived here in Queretaro, back so many months ago, I took a tour of the city with a guide, just to learn more about it and it's history. She was a college student who spoke some English, at least to communicate the basic ideas, however I found out quickly that she did not really have an in-depth knowledge, but rather a cursory one. As we traveled around the city and I paid both her and her driver (separately) and asked questions about the landmarks she was describing, the usual answer was "not certain". At the end of the tour, she basically asked for 'propina' (a tip), which I paid, however felt a bit taken in the experience, as I had so many questions yet about this new city and its rich past. I spent the next year discovering the answers to them and much more - it was a good year.
When I arrived, my history of Mexico was not very well-informed, with far more of it focused on it's pre-Spanish period. I could talk your ear off about the Mayans, but had no real command of the significant figures of the revolution like Allende, Hidalgo and Maximilian were. Looking back on my education, which was quite decent, for a country right on our border, it's surprising how little of this was taught, but rather the Spanish Colonial Period, the Mexican-American War(s), the campaign against Pancho Villa and the Zimmerman Telegram. That was my formal education of Mexico in a nutshell. Yeah embarrassing, but I'll wager yours wasn't much more, even if you were raised on a border state. That's common amongst most countries - they focus on nationalistic pride first and then if there's enough time, make the students at least a little literate about the world beyond their borders. The US is probably one the worst offenders, lol.
The Bicentennial or 'Bicentenario' actually takes in two celebrations: the first being the Bicentennial of two hundred years since Independence (1810) and the second the no less important Centennial of 100 years since Mexican Revolution of 1910.
A (very) Brief History of Time - The Mexican Revolution of 1810:
Okay, this is a broad subject and I make no claims to be an expert, but if you want the basics so when a famous event or person is referenced, strap yourself into the cockpit and hold on - this will be taught at mach 2! (kidding, we don't have space for anything beyond the basics, but you know that I tend to be verbose).
Since the revolution against Spain is the area that I have been studying most, I'll focus on that, but please remember that BOTH the 1810 and 1910 revolutions are what the national psyche are focused on and are being observed this September 16th.
A Humble Priest Lit a Match That Started a Firestorm
The story of Mexico's first revolution is, in essence, the story of the last year Like George Washington is often referred to as the father of his country, Miguel Hidalgo is often called the Father of Mexico. Before the dawn of September 16, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a beloved yet humble Catholic priest from the village of Dolores, made a monumentous decision that altered the course of Mexican history. Within hours, Hidalgo, as he is usually referred to, ordered the arrest of Dolores' native Spaniards, or 'Gachupines'. Shortly afterward he rang the church bell as he customarily did to call the native population to mass.
The message that Hidalgo gave to them was one revolution called them to retaliate against the hated Gachupines, or native Spaniards, who had exploited and oppressed Mexicans for ten generations. It was not a difficult message for him to sell, they were ready long before that day!
El Grito - The Cry of Independence of Delores
an exploration of what has become one of Mexico's highest traditions
(please bear with me..it's worth it, promise!)
The movement toward Mexican independence had actually already been in progress since Napoleon's conquest of Spain, but Hidalgo's declaration was a swift and unpremeditated decision on his part. Legend states that either from the balcony of the church or from the top of the stairs, (or as some contend, from the window of his home), he gave the passionate cry that was to be the start of the Revolution of 1810.
Some historians contend he told his followers in the chill early morning of September 16 that the gachupines were plotting the worst treason imaginable: They were conspiring to deliver the Spanish Catholic Church and the Spanish Empire into the hands of the " non-believing French", to recognize the usurper, Joseph Bonapart. This account says that the priest called on all loyal 'Americans' and Catholics to defend the cause of Ferdinand VII and throw out the traitors of America.
The (somewhat) historically agreed-upon original Grito of Delores went probably something like this:
"Viva el Rey! Viva America! Muera el mal gobierno!"
(Long live the King! Long Live America! Death to bad government!).
There is, however, little argument among historians regarding the cry Hidalgo received:
"Mueran los gachupines!"
(Death to the Spaniards!)
This was to be the most accurate battle cry of Hidalgo's six-month-long War of Independence.
This was the famous cry (referred to as 'el Grito') which triggered the long struggle for independence. This, or something like it, was what Hidalgo told the Mexicans who were the members of New Spain's lowest caste. He urged the exploited and embittered Mexicans to recover the lands that was stolen from their forefathers. That he was calling these people to revolution was a radical change from the original revolution plot devised by the Criollos, or Mexican-born Spaniards.
Another historical note: Of course, hard-minded Mexican historians suggest that the previously stated it is not quite accurate. In fact, they say no one really knows precisely what Hidalgo said that early morning of September 16. Many versions includes the following additions:
" Viva Mexico!"
(Long live Mexico!)
" Viva la Independencia!"
(Long live Independence!)
" Viva la Virgen de Guadalupe!"
(Long live the Virgin of Guadalupe!)
Certainly, Hidalgo did not shout "Viva Mexico!" simply because there was no Mexican state existing at that time. And most historians doubt that he mentioned "independence" or "liberty," for Hidalgo himself later pointed out that the natives and mestizos he addressed did not understand what those words meant. And since, by all accounts, the idea of utilizing the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe as a symbol of the independence movement did not occur to anyone until later when the insurgents were marching through the pueblo of Atoncillo, Hidalgo probably did not shout "Viva la Virgen de Guadalupe."
However, for the sake of avoiding a never-ending historical debate, the above version, including the place it was given as the church of Delores, is generally accepted but regarded to as 'legend'. In the service of nationalism, it stands as a powerful touchstone to Mexico's long struggle to sever its colonial oppressors and a source of deep pride to its citizens.
As I am writing this, the current president of Mexico is said to be in Delores Hidalgo, and will celebrate the nation's Bicentennial by giving the Grito from the steps (or balcony?) of the church. My friends describe the city and the surrounding area like a military zone that has been completely sealed-off by Mexican special forces and to enter it required a special identification (i.e. no gringo tourists for this one, it's a very special event!)
What Historians Believe About the Actual Event of the 'Giving of the Grito'
When Hidalgo spoke publicly that morning (September 16) he did not address a multitude. Dolores was not a large pueblo. More probably, he roused his household, those peons who worked for him and his close friends in town. They, in turn, awakened others. The jail was opened, its prisoners released and the Spaniards of Dolores locked up.
By this time daylight was approaching, and the cura of Dolores ordered the church bells rung, hoping that would hurry Sunday churchgoers from the countryside to an early assembly. Perhaps at the gathering that followed 'the Grito' was given.
This, of course, does not take away anything from the weight of what Hidalgo had done and committed the course of the nine months - what were to become the rest of his life.
The Grito in Modern Mexico
The Grito is repeated every year, most notably in Mexico City by the President of Mexico from the balcony of the National Place, and it is echoed by the governor of each state throughout the country, all from historically prominent locations. Here in city of Queretaro, it is given by the Governor of the state of Queretaro, from the balcony of the 'Palacio de Gobierno' (government palace), which was once the actual seat of colonial rule while still under the Spaniards. After one hundred years, however, time, good manners, and the secularization had transformed the ritual from the call for a holy war, to a peaceful, patriotic affirmation:
(translated...)
"Long live Mexico!
Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe!
Long live the Americas (sometimes included)
and death to the corrupt government!
Long live Hidalgo!
(... and several other historical figures)
Long live the heroes of Independence!"
Notably the bell of the parish of Dolores was eventually brought to Mexico City by order of President Porfirio Diaz and placed above the central balcony of the National Palace, establishing the tradition which has been solemnly followed every year thereafter. Every September 15th, al 11:00 p.m., the President, following the ritual, rings the historic bell and "gives the Grito" to the throngs gathered in the 'Zócalo' (as it's known today - its formal name is Plaza de la Constitución). The Cry may include other acclamations, but that is how it generally is done.
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| Zócalo, which literally translates as "base" or "plinth" |
On a jocular note: most of my friends use the expression "Viva Mexico Cabrones!", which is a popular modern addition, that basically translates to 'Long live Mexico you assholes' - a fun way to defiantly salute Mexico to the rest of the world, especially those who would disparage it.
okay, enough with the Grito stuff...I think we have it!
lol
The Rise of Miguel Hidalgo
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| Mexico's first stamp |
Groups of Criollos across Mexico had been plotting to overthrow the authority of Gachupines who, because of their Spanish birth, had legal and social priority over the Mexican born Criollos. When Joseph Bonaparte replaced King Ferdinand as the leader of Spain, the Criollos recognized a prime opportunity for Mexican sovereignity. The nucleus of this movement was a group of intellectuals in Queretaro led by the Corregidor of Queretaro (state official), his wife Josepha Ortiz de Dominguez, and a group of army officers including Ignacio Allende. Another historical note: Josepha Ortiz de Dominguez is referred to and memorialized in modern day Queretaro as 'la Corregidora'.
Originally, the Criollos plan for revolution did not focus on harnessing Mexicans but rather, they preferred to avoid actual military confrontation by recruiting other Criollo army officers to cut their allegiance to the Gachupines. By claiming loyalty to the defeated King Ferdinand, the Criollos aimed to establish Mexico as an independent nation within King Ferdinand's Spanish empire. If they could accomplish this, the Gachupines who claimed authority under Bonaparte's rule would be forced to flee, what was to no longer be called "New Spain' and become 'Mexico'.
Hidalgo had close ties with this group. Approaching sixty years of age, Hidalgo was beloved and greatly respected by Mexicans. Once the dean of the College of San Nicolas at Valladolid in Michoacan (now Morelia), Hidalgo was a well-educated, courageous humanitarian. He was sympathetic to the native Mexicans, which was unusual amongst Mexican clergymen. Against Gachupin law, Hidalgo taught the natives of his parish to plant olives, mulberries and grapevines and to manufacture pottery and leather.
Again, at this time Mexico was known officially as "La Nueva España," (New Spain) the most important Spanish colony in the New World. Its supreme ruler was King Ferdinand VII of Spain, whose representative in Mexico was the "Virrey" (Viceroy). Hidalgo's actions irritated the Spanish viceroy who, as a punitive measure, cut down Hidalgo's trees and vines he had planted to help the native Mexicans.
Forced Into the Decision of Both His Life, and a Nation
Gachupines were alerted to the Criollos independence movement by Criollo officers who had refused to join the revolutionary movement, and by a priest who had learned of the plot through a confessional. Hidalgo was among the central figures targeted for arrest on September 13, 1810. The Queretaro Corregidor's wife, Josepha Ortiz de Dominguez, informed the Criollos of the Gachupines plan. Allende immediately departed from Quertaro to inform Hidalgo.
According to an alternate version of this story, it was two officers, Allende and Juan de Aldama, who raced through the night to warn Hidalgo to hide. Others say Aldama alone carried the warning from San Miguel to Dolores, reminiscent of Paul Revere's midnight ride to Lexington which occurred 35 years before and more-so, in that Paul was believed to have been joined by a young Doctor named William Prescott.
Okay, however they got there, Allende and Aldama seem both to have been with Hidalgo in Dolores the night of September 15 (and/or 16). Ironically, the two officers, trained military professionals, planned to go into hiding. Hidalgo, with no military experience, decided to go to war.
One chronicle of the event describes Hidalgo telling Allende that the only thing to do now was to go "hunting gachupines." Aldama's portrayal of the event says that the 57 year-old, balding, gray-haired priest quickly declared, "Caballeros, we are lost. There is no alternative but to go after the gachupines." Either way, Aldama apparently thought this was a "hasty" decision.
Allende arrived in Dolores in the early morning hours of September 16. His message forced Hidalgo to make the most signficant decision of his life, a decision which marked the first struggle for Mexican independence and that would distinguish Hidalgo as the national hero of the revolution. The Criollos had not gained enough military alliance to forfeit the Gachupines rule, as the plot had leaked three months before the Criollos target date of December 8.
Hidalgo had three possible options. He could await arrest, flee Dolores or call on the native Mexican and Mestizo forces. His decision to call the exploited groups to revolution completely changed the character of the revolution, and the movement became a bloody class struggle instead of a shrewd political maneuver.
Hidalgo's Campaign - The Revolution Erupts in Central Mexico
When Hidalgo called the native Mexicans to action, he tapped into powerful forces that had been simmering for over three hundred years. With clubs, slings, axes, knives, machetes and intense hatred, the natives took on the challenge of the Spanish artillery. Hidalgo and Allende left Dolores with about 800 men, half of whom were on horseback
San Miguel and Celaya were captured with little resistance. On 21 September 1810, Hidalgo was proclaimed general and supreme commander after arriving to Celaya. At this point, Hidalgo’s army numbered about 50,000. However, because of the lack of military discipline, the insurgents soon fell into robbing, looting and ransacking the towns they were capturing. They began to execute prisoners as well. This caused friction between Allende and Hidalgo that would eventually lead to their separation and likely, each other's downfall
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| The Banner of Hidalgo |
When the native Mexican and mestizo forces, led by Hidalgo and Allende, reached the next village en route to Mexico city, they acquired a picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron saint whose image was of a woman of color. The Virgin of Guadalupe, who was indigenous to Mexico, became the banner of the revolutionary forces as Hidalgo and Allende led the path toward Mexico City and the expulsion of the Gachupines. One will notice that this image is often displayed by Mexicanos in various forms, from religious alters to car window decals; it holds significance not only in it's religious connotation, but especially in it's historical role in Mexico's fight for independence. It should be added that at this point, he then inscribed the following slogans to his troops’ flags: “Long live religion! Long live our most Holy Mother of Guadalupe! Long live Ferdinand VII! Long live America and death to bad government!” Perhaps this is how it was added into the Grito Legend...?
From Guanajuato, Hidalgo set off for Valladolid on 10 October 1810 with 15,000 men and his forces took the city with little opposition. Here, Hidalgo issued proclamations against the peninsulares whom he accused of arrogance and despotism, as well as enslaving those in the Americas for almost 300 years.
His first defeat and the Beginning of the End
The military forces loyal to Spain, (Royalists), marched to Guadalajara, arriving in January 1811 with nearly 6,000 men. Allende and Abasolo wanted to concentrate their forces in the city and plan an escape route should they be defeated, but Hidalgo rejected this. Their second choice then was to make a stand at the Calderon Bridge (Puente de Calderon) just outside the city. Hidalgo had between 80,000 and 100,000 men and 95 cannons, but the better trained royalists decisively defeated the insurgent army, forcing Hidalgo to flee towards Aguascalientes.
At Hacienda de Pabellon, on 25 January 1811, near Aguascalientes, Allende and other insurgent leaders took military command away from Hidalgo, blaming him for their defeats .Hidalgo remained as head politically but with military command going to Allende.
What was left of the insurgent Army of the Americas moved north towards Zacatecas and Saltillo, possibly with the goal of making connections with those in the United States for support.
Hidalgo made it to Saltillo, where he publicly resigned his military post and rejected a pardon offered by General José de la Cruz in the name of Venegas in return for Hidalgo’s surrender. A short time later, they were betrayed and captured by royalist Ignacio Elizondo at the Wells of Baján (Norias de Baján) on 21 March 1811 and taken to the city of Chihuahua..
From Humble Beginnings, to Soaring Heights and a Martyr's End
The old priest was turned over to the bishop of Durango, Francisco Gabriel de Olivares, for an official defrocking firing squad on 30 July at 7 in the morning. Before his execution, he thanked his jailers, Private Soldiers Ortega and Melchor, in letters for their humane treatment. At his execution, Hidalgo placed his right hand over his heart to show the riflemen where they should aim. He also refused the use of a blindfold.
His body, along with the bodies of Allende, Aldama and José Mariano Jiménez were decapitated, and the heads were put on display on the four corners of the Alhondiga de Granaditas in Guanajuato. The heads remained there for ten years until the end of the Mexican War of Independence to serve as a warning to other insurgents. Hidalgo’s headless body was first displayed outside the prison but then buried in the Church of St Francis in Chihuahua. Those remains would later be transferred in 1824 to Mexico City.
Yet another important historical note: Despite his ambiguity toward the violent class struggle that was the Mexican revolution, Hidalgo is still revered as the father of Mexican independence and "Father of the Nation’’ even though it was Agustin de Iturbide and not Hidalgo who achieved Mexican Independence in 1821. Shortly after gaining independence, the day to celebrate it varied between 16 September, the day of Hidalgo’s Grito and 27 September, the day Iturbide rode into Mexico City to end the war. Later, political movements would favor the more liberal Hidalgo over the conservative Iturbide, so that eventually 16 September 1810 became the officially recognized day of Mexican independence. The reason for this is that Hidalgo is considered to be “precursor and creator of the rest of the heroes of the (Mexican War of) Independence.” Hidalgo has become an icon for Mexicans who resist tyranny in the country.
After Hidalgo's cry of Dolores and his eventual execution, several years of war were to follow, and many more heroes of Mexico's independence were to follow after him.
As a testament to it's power, through the long decades of despotic Mexican rulers and political unrest, El Grito de Dolores, "Mexicanos, viva Mexico," has persevered. Every year at midnight on September 15, Mexicans led by the president of Mexico shout the Grito, honoring the crucial and impulsive action that was the catalyst for the country's bloody struggle for independence from Spain.
If you ever get a chance to see this event, 'el Grito', for yourself, you will be glad that you made the trip.
The history runs deep in this region.
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