2000 Miles in One Week - part III

To the Beach…!

The salt air was easy to smell as I approached the north end of Tampico, passing through the neighboring town of Altamira, looking for, what looked to be, a the beach bypass called Carretera A Puerto Industrial. I didn’t realize it but this was a harbinger of things to come as the name implied, I was in for a rude awakening - in more ways than one. Ignorantly, and thus optimistically, I roared my old Land Rover southwestwardly, looking for signs of the little city on the beach that I had imagined.

Missing the bypass route, (as usual, lol), I navigated my way through what turned out to be the cities of Altamira, Miramar and Tampico, eventually arriving at the Tampico airport, which was surprisingly non-descript. I stayed on a thoroughfare called the Tampico Mante, figuring that I was very close to the Gulf, which I could no longer smell, btw, so all I had to do was look for a sign saying ‘playa xyz’ or, Beach (whatever the name is). It works pretty well in the US so I made the assumption that Mexico would be equally proud of theirs. After all, beaches serve a community as a tourist attraction and thus often a major source of revenue. Tampico treated this natural resource a bit differently…

Persona-Non-Grata

(or is this what traveling businessmen from Nazi Germany may have felt like?)

I wish to take this opportunity to personally thank my home of record, the great state of Arizona for the incredible albatross it tied, albeit remotely, around my neck while living here in Mexico. During the entire time I picked-up any noticias (news) on the radio while heading south from Matamoros, it contained long commentaries and updates from the border state of Arizona and how it was now a pariah for the entirety of the rest of the planet, at least from their perspective.

Watching and listening to the news of the US almost constantly and traveling back and forth to Phoenix, I agree that the situation was becoming quite difficult with the border crossings, especially from the narco-trafficantes who recently are believed to have murdered an Arizona rancher who lived in the southeastern portion of the state. It was quickly afterward that the new law allowing guys like Sherriff Joe and men of his profession to, with probable cause, to verify any person’s immigration status. (i.e. if you are not white and have any kind of accent, you will be asked for “your papers” and be detained if you have none on your person – yes, I read the stupid thing…). If the police decided to do it with a German accent, that would just about round-out the entire scenario for me.

In honor of the new law in Arizona and how it has enabled Mexico, if not the entire rest of the planet to paint us as, this blog officially from this point onward, will have the theme My Favorite Nazi. (no, I couldn’t find a pic of one with antennae) 

Lost in a Forest  

(...of streetlights)

Bumbling along, feeling a bit like Schultz himself, I progressed through what seemed to be endless city streets that looked like much of the many other cities that I have visited here in Mexico, I finally saw small little green sign that pointed to ‘La Playa’. Following that direction for another 20 minutes, past lots of industrial facilities and not much else I began to lose hope and assumed that I had missed another turn somewhere. However, just as I was about to turn around and try another route I smelled that familiar scent – the ocean - that unmistakable combination of salt, wet sand, and just a hint of old fish.

I ended-up in an area called Playa Miramar, or literally, ‘sea view beach’, which is about a one mile stretch that parallels the ocean. I didn’t know this at the time, only that I had reached the water and life was getting better as I had that sea breeze pouring in through my windows, filling the interior of the LR with that much-missed combination of wind carrying a tiny amount of sand, which peppers the cheeks when it hits you. I was back home on the water – a nice feeling!

So driving down the beach, looking at the layout I found it a bit surprising. It was beautiful evening with a warm breeze and the entirety of the area was nearly empty. I continued my way south until I reached, also surprisingly, the end of the road, where it dead-ends into the shipping channel. Circling back, I came to the quick realization that Tampico’s coastal tourist attraction was only one mile long, and further, it really didn’t have a lot to offer someone looking for a classic ‘beach town’. I counted about 8 or so small (but overpriced) hotels, one really nice (and exorbitantly-priced) resort, a small collection of beer tiendas (shops) and on the south end was a grouping of fishing-focused tiendas, which we Americanos would probably call bait shops, along the seawall on that end.

After checking the majority of the hotels about rates and realizing I was being offered either high-priced rooms with no view of the water whatsoever, or rooms closer to the beach that were just not worth the cost for an 11 am check-out time. I think the prices ranged from $800 pesos to well over $2000, and I didn’t even bother inquiring on what a beach bungalow would have cost… a real disappointment considering the place was just dead. Then again, perhaps that was one of the reasons it was so. Playa Miramar appeared to be nothing what I had hoped, but instead, a sort-of tourist trap for locals who cannot afford to travel to better locations in Mexico like Veracruz, Cancun, or Puerto Vallarta. 

Undaunted, I was resolved to make the best of it and searched the nearby areas for a more palatable rate, as most Mexican hotels tend to be. As luck would have it, I found within a quarter mile of Calle Costero, the name of that mile-long beach drive, a small collection of hotels in what looked to be, an unofficial mini red light district. The image that I portray would be incorrect if one would assume it to be a high-crime area – it was not. I pulled into an Auto Hotel, which popular in many parts of Mexico as it includes a garage directly below your room, and has a garage door that serves as the front door to the entire space, thus security for your vehicle is guaranteed (your car is your first floor roommate, of sorts). Be advised, however, should one decide to stay at such a place the amenities are very sparse, with a minimum of TP provided (on a ¾ width roll no less, lol) and bath towels must be requested. The price was right at 350 pesos, (about $27 USD), but the bed was slightly more comfortable than sleeping on concrete with a blanket on top of it. I was pretty tired, so I figured that such things would be short-lived and I would be to sleep very quickly in spite of it.

Btw, there wasn't much on the television...

After settling-in, I was still wide awake and I really did want to explore the beach, which was still very close as the breeze was coming in through my window. Actually, the humidity was significant, and the ancient but still-functioning air conditioner proved to be much nicer than the open window later that evening. It occupied one of the two only outlets in the room, so I plugged-in the laptop to re-charge it a bit while I went for a walk on the beach. Putting on white slacks and a martini-themed shirt, I set off in my tackiest of tourista garb to find a beer to sip on and burrow my feet into the sand.

As I mentioned, this was something of a red light district with the usual, small number of folks meandering about and loitering in front of the storefronts, relaxing after what was probably a very warm day. As is usually the case in the majority of Mexico and contrary to the news reports in the US, I never felt that I was any sort of danger, even walking down the somewhat dimly-lit streets long after midnight. Admittedly, I have a pretty confident swagger, (so I’m told, haha), look people directly in the eye and nod when passing other fellows, and of course I don’t venture down dark alleys when I go out at night. The street vendors were busy preparing their treats of hamburgesas (burgers with a Mexican twist) and media noches (literally “midnights” which are hot dogs also made with a Mexican array of toppings – Btw, I will get to this in more detail at a later time, promise!). I made mental note to pick up a snack on my return trip from the beach.

The Venting of an Arizonian Living Abroad

(i.e. this is the part where all of my good friends who happen to lean hard to the right had probably better just skip over – unless you want my take on the subject)

I agree that there is a HUGE problem with illegal narcotics and human-trafficking efforts crossing the border, especially in AZ, however I fail to see how such a law will halt, or even remotely reduce, such conduits to the US drug market and the criminal underworld that these people occupy, as has been one of the assertions of its protractors. The bastards that killed one of my fellow Arizonians are murderous criminals and they could give a damn about our laws, especially the ones that concern their immigration status.

If confronted, this type of low life would sooner kill a police officer rather than be detained for a mere border violation, however, they tend to specialize in keeping well out of the spotlight of the everyday. They are part of a whole different spectrum of modern society that the rest of us have little or no contact with and thus cannot identify with. Further, the 'coyotes', as the human traffickers are known on the Mexican border, become more  powerful with this legislation as they now will be the preferred choice amongst those who trying to cross into the US, and they will exert even greater power over immigrants, keeping them in  even more desperate straits with the threat of ICE hanging over their heads. It also moves the role of the coyotes thoroughly into the realm of  the professional criminal and  what was previously not controlled by organized crime, now will be. 

(yes, that is Ratzinger during the war - even HE can make a big mistake and realize the error of his ways)

 In my opinion, the recent move by Obama to add 1200 troops to the border, while not a terrific solution long-term, is a start in addressing this situation of halting the criminals from crossing. I think it is important to point out also, that despite the (usual) trashing by Fox News as to the number being far too low, etc, etc, this was the suggestion of everyone from ultra-right commentators like Pat Buchanan and Republicans across the spectrum.  Hopefully the Senate GOP gets behind the effort to help steer the process more, rather than  simply  attacking any new policy as 'inept' or 'ill-crafted'. Every time the guy tries to extend a hand across the aisle and  do something that reflects Republican  values, they automatically bite that hand, with what seems to simply be spite for wanting him to look bad in-time to regain control of the Congress at the next election. It looks pathetic and they wonder why the public has such a low opinion of Congress. It would be so much better if they would come together to solve this issue, instead of posturing against each other to try to score political points. Perhaps I'm being idealistic, but the situation is dire and the criminals crossing into the US need to be stopped and we need the GOP to help solve the problem; I hope they decide to join the team soon.

Btw, Yes, I pay my Arizona taxes and No, it does not bother me that some of it goes to pay for illegals to get health care when they need it. It is (or was) a source of pride that I lived in a country that considered itself charitable to those in need and did not freak out about their immigration status. Also, I do not agree that these people are taking away jobs from “hard-working Americans” as so many of them work the fields harvesting our food and doing so many jobs that most of us would not even consider. How many times have you heard someone complain that they cannot find a job working in the hot desert sun picking lettuce? I didn’t think so…

We need this labor force, (not to mention we especially need to bring them into the tax base), and if the two sides of the congress, with the leadership of people like McCain, who tried to do this a long time ago btw, could get their s**t together just for two minutes to streamline the work visa process for the US, much of the current situation would disappear. I’ve met so many people who describe it currently as a very dysfunctional & corrupt process that involves either waiting for close to 15 years to get your work permit, or paying a significant amount of money to get ‘expedited service’ (i.e. a bribe). 


All they want to do is work the crappy jobs that we do not and for that our current system makes people pony-up a year or two’s wages, or face the desert, or even worse, indentured to less than scrupulous employers who offer a life akin to slavery in exchange for not turning them in to our ICE Gestapo-esque enforcement machine.

This is what the Arizona conservative effort could have pushed and gave the Republicans of Congress the political cover to accomplish, and thus probably have established a powerful Latino voting block throughout the entire US populace. Instead of looking forward, reactionary thought through fear-mongering and xenophobia won the day and the both the national & international reputation of my home state was trashed, making it a pariah amongst those who would try to defend it from it’s historical detractors.

Surely as a constitutional republic we can do much better; I miss people like William F. Buckley at times like this, and yes, I HATE Illinois Nazis...

I know that I am ranting and that is certainly not my intent, however, I really want my friends in the United States to understand the true cost of aggressive laws and foreign policy, at least in what kind of environment we create for ourselves in the eyes of other nations. While I have noticed a correlation between those who tend to favor such policies and an apparent disinterest in foreign travel and/or residence, I will not drive that point too sternly here. However, I sincerely want the supporters of such efforts to at least realize the impact of them on people who work and travel beyond the borders of our beautiful country, let alone (like me) those carrying an Arizona ID card - for me, it feels something akin to having to show a passport with a swastika on the front of it.

Ever been on the receiving-end of the reaction to our foreign policy? 

(Been there before also and it still sucks)

So I made my way down to the beach and found a small tienda, selling one of my favorite beers, Victoria. For those not familiar with it, it’s a very good quality pilsner, probably a remnant of the Mexican-based ex-patriot German brewing infrastructure that was nationalized at the height of WWI (refer to your history book under the topic Zimmerman Telegram, as I have not the space for that here). This favorite beer, as with any such comfort food/beverage, evokes a relaxed feeling in me that is similar to a shoulder rub from a female friend after a tough day at the hangar, doing battle with a stubborn autopilot computer in a dingy old 737.

It is a special beer here in Mexico, as it is not exported to any other countries. The company that brews it has established a business model that makes it available in Mexico and Mexico only. A good friend of mine explained the advertising campaign of this brand of beer on Mexican television & publications as, “La Victoria es Nuestra”, which means, ‘the Victory is ours’. A source of pride I agree and it has become a preferred brew while living down this way.

As the fellow sat my Victoria down and I reached for my wallet, he saw that I did not have a Mexican ID, but rather a US one. In a friendly tone, he asked me where I was from and I, being a bit tired and thus forgetting the news of the day, quickly responded “Arizona!” as it’s a source of pride with it’s huge Mexicano population. I could see the surprise in his face as the friendliness left his expression. He slowly retrieved my beloved Victoria from the counter and pointed to the door, saying (I think) “please leave”. Embarrassed for myself, annoyed with his response, ashamed of my countrymen, and just flat-out amazed at the exchange, I stumbled away and looked over my shoulder hoping that someone didn’t decide they wanted to get a piece of me to boot. Thinking back, I realize now that this is not really a common behavior trait amongst the populace, but at the time I was so neurotic about the whole thing that I made it a point to stay away from the streetlights as much as possible.

I crossed over to the other side (and down almost a quarter mile, btw) to the beach side of the street and found another tienda, also selling Victoria’s. Hiding my ID well under a couple of credit cards, I walked-up, order
ed “Dos cervesas, por vavor” and stealthily pulled the money from my wallet. With what I would assume is a thick accent to these folks, the young fellow at the counter naturally asked me if I was from in the US. I answered “Si, Alabama”. He nodded approvingly and I told him to keep the change. Ironically, to Mexicans Alabama is a much less racist area than Arizona… apologies to my friends in both, but it is an interesting point to consider and speaks volumes to the hard work of one, along with the damage done with the stroke of a governor's pen to the other. Thank the dear Lord my LR's tags are from Alabama...!!

Btw, I have now permanently hidden my my Arizona ID and only my close friends here know my home of record. My new nickname is, "Pinche Arizona Nazi Cavrone". Although it's jokingly applied by people who do not mean ill toward me, I still have to wear it like a scarlet letter, hidden under my shirt. 

(Frank's current portrait, according to the daily noticias)  

If you completely disagree with everything that I have written so far, at the very least please come away with this one lesson - having opinions about your character superseded by the bad decisions of others really does suck ass, trust me. As Americans, this is the bed that we create for ourselves to lie in when we wish to travel through and interact with the people of the world. We are continuing the process of undermining the good will that once dominated public opinion toward the US; a tipping point may be reached in which our reputation of 'the shining city on the hill' will not recover, at least in our lifetimes. I implore the good folks of Arizona to re-think their views on immigration.

Staring at the Sea...looking at the sky, looking at the sand

(no gun in my hand, nope)

Grabbing my ice-cold treasure, I swigged one as I walked out on the beach. I actually finished one within about 20 yards; perhaps it was from the heat of the day of maybe it was the relief that I had actually made it there, but it went down easily and I was transformed to a much better place. I took off my shoes, rolled-up my pants, and entered that beloved place in the mind known to my Parrothead friends as ‘Margaritaville’. I looked up at what must have been close to a full moon as I waded into the Gulf up to my knees, thoroughly enjoying my second beer as the sea breeze gently blew through my open shirt.

Like reaching the top of a mountain peak, a sense of deep relief entered and my body lost all of its tension and life was really good again. There on the beach, after all of the afore-mentioned drama, standing in the saltwater, at that wonderful moment, the victory was mine.

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